Hovedsoverom/Master Bedroom

Løsninger for dette rommet/Solutions for this room

Detailed site navigation

Master Bedroom

On this page, I present the actual solutions installed in our own bedroom of our smart home, with links to specific products used and how these have been set up

This room contains solutions for the following systems (notice that on phones, the table might only be displayed in landscape mode):

System Type Components
  • Aqara Opple Wireless Scene Switcher

  • Aqara smart light switch

  • Aqara wireless smart switch

  • 3 IKEA Trådfri E14 smart bulbs

  • 2 IKEA Trådfri magnetic, wireless switches

  • IKEA Trådfri Driver

  • 3 IKEA Norrfly LED lighting strips for wardrobes

  • Philips Hue motion sensor

  • Philips Hue dimmer switch

Climate Control
  • Fibaro Single Switch smart relay

  • IKEA Fyrtur blinds

  • Mill smart panel heater

Home Entertainment None
Security and Alarm
  • Verisure smoke detector

Personal care and health
  • Beddit 3.0 Sleep Tracker

Control and Automation
  • Lenovo smart clock

Description of the solutions in this room

This was for a long time a room without any smart solutions, partly due to a lack of real needs and partly due to a lack of suitable products. As new devices have been launched, it became possible to implement solutions with true benefits. The start of the upgrade process for this bedroom came with the launch of the IKEA Trådfri driver, which is HomeKit compatible and can turn on/off as well as dim connected light sources. One of the light sources compatible with the driver is the Norrfly wardrobe light, see picture below. These come in different lengths and have a built-in motion sensor. We have installed three of these, one behind each of three wardrobe sliding doors, and they work exactly as expected. I should mention that I at first tried to «get away» with installing two longer lights, but the motion sensor failed to trigger for all three doors. There is no programming to be done, the light control takes care of it self, but I should also mention that we had a little startup problem. At the same time as we got these wardrobe lights, we also purchased lamps for the living room compatible with the Trådfri driver, and when I programmed these, I inadvertently left them out of the “Good Night” scene. So when my better half retired for the evening after I had already gone to bed, she would resort to asking Siri to turn off all lights. This also turned the Trådfri driver controlling the wardrobe lights off, and the next time we opened a wardrobe door, the light didn’t come on. It took some head scratching before I figured that out, but it illustrates an aspect of the driver; it appears in HomeKit as a light source that can be turned on/off or dimmed, but if used merely as a power transformer for the type of light like the Norrfly, it should basically be left on constantly and never adjusted. That means that commands to perform some action on all lights also will be performed on such drivers.

Stacks Image 692
One of the three Norrfly lights in the wardrobe

The next step was the ceiling light. In many other rooms of the house, the main light is connected to a motion sensor since it is extremely practical having the light turn on automatically when entering, especially if carrying something that makes it hard to reach the manual switch. In the master bedroom, however, the ceiling light is integrated in the ceiling fan, a relatively old model, where a wall switch turns on/off the whole fan, i.e., both fan and light. The fan has two chains that pulled to respectively turn on/off the light and adjust the speed of the fan, from off and through to three speeds, see picture below.

The ceiling fan with wall switch and chains for controlling the light and fan speed

Stacks Image 706

The goal had long been to reach a solution where the fan light could be controlled using a motion sensor and the fan speed based on the temperature in the room, and I struggled for some time to figure this out, with the fan control being the main problem. I looked at products like Bond, which neother works in Europe nor is HomeKit compatible, Insteon Fan Controller, which does not work for 220 V and where a launched HomeKit base station has been phased out, and finally Sonoff iFan02, which actually comes in a 220 V version, but which is not HomeKit compatible and thus offered no obvious way to connect to a temperature sensor. There are HomeKit-compatible ceiling fans, but sadly only for the North-American market. In the end, I resorted to this solution: The existing light bulb in the ceiling fan was exchanged for an IKEA Trådfri E14 smart bulb. This is controlled using a Philips Hue motion sensor, see picture below.

Stacks Image 714
Hue motion sensor mounted with double-sided tape on a night stand so that it faces the door. The picture also shows a Lenovo smart clock, which can be used as a base station for Google Home, as well as various switches, which are described below

This was for a long programmed so that the light turned on when motion was detected and the time was outside the time of night where we can be expected to be in bed, to avoid having the light turn on when turning in bed during sleep. This type of programming can be done in the Home app, by defining a trigger (motion) and time interval, see screenshot below.

Programming of the ceiling fan light meant to turn on only when motion is detected outside of the time interval when we were typically sleeping

Stacks Image 728

The disadvantage of this setup was that the time interval where the light should not be turned had to be set with a wide margin, to take into account evenings where someone went early to bed og mornings where someone slept long. This meant that in many cases, we had to use a Philips Hue dimmer switch, installed above the old wall switch, if we wanted to turn on/off the light manually at times where it didn’t turn on automatically (in addition, the remaining two buttons have been programmed to turn the fan on/off manually). For a long time, I wondered how to create a more elegant solution and considered several different approaches:

  • Program one of the buttons on the dimmer switch so that the motion sensor would be deactivated until reactivating by pressing one of the other buttons. I thought this would be possible using the app iConnectHue, but it turned out this functionality was “inverted”; i.e., deactivating a motion sensor to not turn off a light after a period of inactivity.

  • Use some kind of sensor in the bed to tell when someone was lying in it, but something like this is not for sale and would have to be assembled from parts.

  • Link a condition to triggering an action when the motion sensor detects motion, e.g., to turn on the ceiling light only if a defined light is on or set to a certain brightness. Then one of the dimmer buttons could be pressed when going to bed to put the “condition light” in the right state, so that the motion sensor would not turn on the light in the bedroom until another of the dimmer buttons was used the next morning to take the “condition light” out of the defined state, so as to again allow the sensor to trigger the ceiling light.

In the end, the solution ended up being a version of the latter approach. I first investigated which light could be a suitable “condition light”. Ideally it should be a light that would neither be inconvenient having staying on the whole night nor be connected to a motion sensor (in a room with an open door) so that the cats could not be able to change the state of the light during the night. Furthermore, it should be a light that can be dimmed, not only be turned on/off using a smart plug, at this would have the light on at full brightness all nights and consuming a lot of power. The most promising candidate was for some time considered to be the lamp in the outdoor shed, but we have some experience with the Hue bulb there sometimes shows an “unreachable” and then the motion sensor in the bedroom would not be able to collect the required signal from this light.

We landed on using the lights in the wardrobe in the bedroom itself. As described above, these are set up so that the Trådfri Driver acting as the power converter for these lights can be turned on/off in HomeKit. This, however, does not turn on the light itself, that happens only when the built-in motion sensor is triggered. And since we obviously don’t need the lights in the closets when sleeping, the solution was as follows: Button 4 on the Hue dimmer turns off both the ceiling light and the wardrobe light, and this is pressed when the first person goes to bed. Next, the motion sensor is programmed, in the Eve app, see screenshot below, so that at detected motion, the ceiling light should be turned on only if the wardrobe light is on. And finally, button 1 on the dimmer is programmed to turn on the wardrobe light again, which is pressed by the last person getting up (I did attempt to achieve a solution where a short press on the button would turn on the ceiling light and a long press the wardrobe light, but despite the Eve app allowing to separate between short/long press, HomeKit does not allow defining actions for two different types of presses for the same button). Should we forget to turn the wardrobe light on again in the morning, this is automatically set to turn on at 10:00 anyway, so the ceiling light turns on at motion until going to bed again. And at bedtime, there is no risk of forgetting to press button 4 as the ceiling light will turn on when entering the bedroom and remind us.

This solution worked well, but eventually we started using a so-called “dummy switch” in Homebridge (through this plugin). This is now the solution here, where a virtual switch is turned off at night when we go to bed and on again in the morning, in addition to being turned on/off at defined times. When motion is detected, the virtual switch is used as criterion for whether to turn on/off the ceiling light.

Stacks Image 744
Programming in the Eve app so that motion in the bedroom only turns on the ceiling light if the light in the wardrobe is on

The lamp by the bed had for a long time only traditional bulbs, but in the end also these were replaced by smart bulbs, two IKEA Trådfri E14 smart bulb, partly because it was one of a very few light sources in the house still not «on line» and partly because the switch on the lamp cord is a little hard to find. Now this lamp is controlled by two IKEA Trådfri wireless switches (as far as I can tell sold only in kits with a smart plug), placed on the night stands on either side of the bed, see pictures below. These switches work as other control devices from Trådfri, by only being possible to program in the IKEA app by placing them in the same room as lights to be controlled by it, see screenshot below. Fortunately, in March 2019, it became possible to put two control devices in the same room, so that both switches control both bulbs.

Stacks Image 755

Lamp above the bed with two Trådfri bulbs and a switch on either nightstand

Stacks Image 761

“Programming” of the Trådfri switches and bulbs by placing them in the same room (notice that the master bedroom must be defined as two different rooms, otherwise the switches at the night stands would turn on/off the wardrobe lights and the fan light; this is just one example of how the “programming” options in the IKEA app are fairly limited)

Stacks Image 770

This is another room where we have replaced the old wall switch by a smart version from Aqara, see picture below. The old switch had been installed in a wall box, but the Aqara switch won’t fit into our standard, round wall boxes so I had to make the box a little bit bigger to make it fit. This now works excellently, the wall switch is basically always on, so that the motion sensor control of the smart bulb works as it should. But now, if someone inadvertently turns off the ceiling light using the wall switch, we can easily turn it on again without having to use the physical switch.

In addition, we have installed an Aqara Opple Wireless Scene Switcher, which is a wireless switch with four buttons, where each button can be assigned different functions for short, long, and double press. This makes it far more versatile than the Philips Hue dimmer switch we had here for a long time, where each button could only be programmed with one action (this has now been reprogrammed and is used in guest room 1). This allows us to control all the lights in the room as well as the blinds from this switch by the door, and a bonus is that is aesthetically matches the wall switch below it much better (even if such complex programming requires labels to remember what each button does…).

A smart wall switch controls the ceiling lamp and a wireless switch above it controls many devices in the room

Stacks Image 883

To control the fan, in the end I ended up with a product I had already installed a couple of other places (there to control lights), namely a a Fibaro Single Switch. However, I was partly concerned that the load incurred when the fan starts would be too much for the relay and also partly unsure whether it would be possible to get access to a separate wire to the engine fan. Both turned out to be unfounded. The latter solved itself by unmounting the fan from the ceiling and confirming that there were easily accessible wires for light and fan separately, as well as plenty of space in the connection box for the Fibaro relay. Furthermore, I checked with Fibaro customer support about the load, and though they couldn’t guarantee it would work, they thought it would. After having connected the relay, I was a bit hesitant when turning on the fan for the first time, and the feeling didn’t go away when there was some delay/clicking noises. However, in the Fibaro app, it is possible to choose which type of device the relay controls, see screenshot below, and when changing the setting to fan, everything worked well.

Stacks Image 780
In the Fibaro app, you can choose which type of device is connected to the relay, and it also shows power consumption

And since the Philips Hue motion sensor also measures temperature (and light brightness), I use its measurements to control the fan. This has been programmed in the Eve app, since it allows routines using both triggers and conditions. It is now set up so that when the temperature exceeds 20 degrees Celsius, the fan is turned on, and correspondingly off again when the temperature drops below 20, see screenshots below.

Stacks Image 791

Programming set up in the Eve app, on the left, where the ceiling fan turns on if the temperature, measured by the Hue motion sensor, goes above 20 degrees Celsius and the time is between 21:00 and 07:00 (to avoid running the fan during the day when we are not in the room)

In the Home app, on the right, these conditions are shown even if they cannot be set up in this app

Stacks Image 797

Corresponding rule turns the fan off if the condition is met that it was one and the temperature falls below 20 degrees (also this has been programmed in the Eve app)

Stacks Image 806

This works exactly as we wanted, with the only drawback being that the relay can only turn the fan on at the speed selected with the chain, not adjust it, but this is a very minor issue (but one which either of the products outlined earlier or an innately smart fan would solve).

After the spring of the manual blinds suddenly broke, I saw no reason to replace it with another manual one. Instead, yet another set of IKEA Fyrtur blinds was installed, see picture below. As elsewhere in the house, this work flawlessly, with the little remote control placed on one of the night stands.

As the seasons changed, we realized that we only used a few “settings” in terms of how closed the blinds were. When a Philips Hue dimmer switch was taken out of service in a different room, it was programmed with these “closed settings” for each of the four buttons, and the switch placed on the other night stand, see picture below. This makes it much easier to achieve the desired position of the blinds. It was later supplemented by an Aqara wireless smart switch to turn the ceiling on/off from the bed.

Stacks Image 980

IKEA Fyrtur blinds to the left and Hue and other switches to the right

Stacks Image 986

After we got a dog, with rather thin coat, who likes going to bed in the master bedroom early in the evening, we realized that during winter, it would often be on the chilly side, even with the window closed. We therefore installed a Mill panel heater here, see picture below, of a similar type to one we had previously installed in the office (see more about Mill and the functionality of these smart heaters there). Also this has been combined with an Aqara window sensor and programmed so that it turns off when the window is opened and on again when the window is closed again. Otherwise if follows the temperature program defined in the Mill app.

Stacks Image 1031
Mill panel heater with WiFi control, with an Aqara window sensor above

Also in this room, there is a Verisure smoke detector, see picture below, and has been mentioned under other rooms, measurements of temperature and humidity are brought into HomeKit via Homebridge.

Verisure smoke detector

Stacks Image 1054

Within the category of “personal care and health” we don’t have many smart devices, but one of the few we have is a Beddit sleep tracker. The sensor, in the form of a “pad” is placed between the mattress and the sheet, see picture below. Beddit also requires that the connected phone is in the same room so I have had to put a charger on the nightstand (something I was hoping to avoid; we partly have a combined phone/watch charger in the office and I partly dislike having the phone next to the bed). The tracker works well, though. I was uncertain whether the sensor underneath the sheet would bother me, but this is no issue, and I like the statistics provided (see picture below) and sleep tips given. It can also be integrated with the Apple Health app so that the sleep data are combined with other health data.

Stacks Image 926

The thin sensor pad is placed under the sheet at “chest height”

Statistics about last night’s sleep are shown through a few key parameters

Stacks Image 932

A complete overview of the devices in the room is shown in the screenshot below.

Stacks Image 903
All devices in the master bedroom (notice that the current temperature measured by the panel heater is 100 degrees Celsius, which is obviously wrong, and error caused by the Mill plugin for Homebridge)